If another royal had died, it’s hard to imagine that there would have been such a reaction. And this is a testament to the qualities which Diana brought to a monarchy that badly needed them: charisma, glamour, a skill in handling the media, and an ability to convey a sense of genuine caring. These were all the more remarkable since she appears to have been given so little preparation for her role, beginning as a 20-year-old bride in 1981, and so little support once she was in it.

Her popularity was, for a while, something that benefited all concerned. The media got great stories and photos. The public delighted in her glamour and her complex personality. She herself enjoyed fame for a while, both for its own sake and for the opportunity it gave her to highlight causes she cared about. And it was all good news for the monarchy, and for her husband and eldest son, both in line to be future kings. For all that anybody knew in the early eighties, Diana would just continue building up public support for herself and her fellow-royals, setting the stage for successful reigns for both Charles and William.

Of course, that’s not how it turned out. As Diana went through a very public separation and divorce and grew ever more bitter and depressed, her powerful public image started working in unexpected ways. And it continues to do so, leaving a complex legacy.

In a 1995 interview, after her separation from Charles was acknowledged, Diana said that she probably would not become queen, but would like to be “a queen of people’s hearts.” A veteran communicator by now, she must have been aware that this perfectly-formed soundbite was a direct provocation against both the present ruler and any woman Charles might eventually want to make his queen.

Once the divorce was finalized in 1996, the Palace agreed to let Diana be called “Diana, Princess of Wales,” an evocative accolade but one with no constitutional teeth, as she could no longer be a “Royal Highness.” While we’ll probably never know what backroom haggling led to that deal, it was clearly an attempt at damage limitation by the Palace, which had come to regard her as a loose cannon while recognizing that she had the public’s sympathy.

All the while, public opinion became more and more divided over whether she was exploited by the monarchy and the media, or whether she was the exploiter. That debate continued in the wake of her tragic death. All these years later, it’s perhaps a little easier to see it as a bit of both.

What does all this mean for the likely next two kings? The public image of Charles suffered massively from the acrimony with Diana, but William seems to have received none of the damage and all of the reflected glory. In a country where the monarchy remains a popular institution even when the individuals leading it are not, William is seen as embodying the best of both worlds. A dutiful scion of the House of Windsor, he is also an attractive figure like his mother, and has brought some of her charisma to his public duties. Exhibiting an independent spirit, during his early military career William repeatedly requested that he be involved in active service. But having been steered in a different direction by the Palace and the government, who were wary of letting him get into any real danger, he seems to have acquiesced.

For someone so young, William has suffered great sadness and learnt some tough lessons. He is apparently gifted with looks, intelligence, tact and skill. With all that going for him, he may grow to outshine both his parents.

Written by David Hill for EuropeUpClose.com

If you’re planning a trip to France, or simply interested in what it means to be “French,” here are some of the best books I’ve come across for understanding the uniqueness and complexity of the intersections between French history, language, culture and daily life.

Sixty Million Frenchmen Can’t Be Wrong: Why We Love France but Not the French
by Jean Benoit- Nadeau and Julie Barlow (Sourcebooks, Inc. 2003) Written by two Canadian sociologists, Jean Benoit- Nadeau and Julie Barlow, this collection of essays unpacks topics such as personal relationships, cuisine, the Algerian War, World War I and II, immigration, national identity and the concept of privacy. Intelligent yet accessible to anyone (you don’t have to have a background in French studies to get a lot out of this book), Sixty Million Frenchmen Can’t Be Wrong is an engaging read for the long flight across the pond.

French or Foe?: Getting the Most Out of Visiting, Living and Working in France
by Polly Platt (Distribooks, 2003)
Written in a friendly tone with loads of examples taken from real life, Platt’s French or Foe focuses on everyday interactions in France. She takes a concept, such as education, describes some of the behavioral or customary differences in behavior between Americans and the French, and then provides a brief historical or cultural explanation of why this is so. Though some of her examples rely on generalizations that don’t always hold true, it is filled with practical advice for negotiating simple Franco-American relations.

Cultural Misunderstandings: The French-American Experience
by Raymonde Carroll (University of Chicago Press, 1990)
Cultural Misunderstandings, written by the celebrated sociologist, Raymonde Carroll (a French-born American citizen) and translated by Carol Volk is somewhat heavier (in terms of tone) than the previous two books, but just as useful. Carroll buttresses her intercultural arguments with examples taken from her experiences living in France and the United States. The book’s emphasis is on successful communication, which depends heavily on being culturally literate.

Consider these three books a “crash course” in French culture. They are sure to clarify some of your queries regarding the French and hopefully make you think of even more questions  — and you’ll just have to travel to France to get them answered.

Written by Jen Westmoreland Bouchard for EuropeUpClose.com

Mondovino is a 2004 documentary on the impact of globalization on international wine markets. The title literally means “world of wine” in Italian, but is conveniently similar to the brand name Mondavi, a company the film critiques throughout. Mondovino was both written and directed by American filmmaker Jonathan Nossiter (who is also a trained sommelier). The film was nominated for the Cannes Film Festival Palme d’Or and a César Award in 2004.

In addition to examining the effects of the rapid growth of large commercial wine brands on the global wine economy, Mondovino also explores the international influence of high-profile critics and consultants such as Robert Parker  (American) and Michel Rolland (French). Through conversations with small vineyard owners in France and Italy (who maintain a soulful connection to their land), the aforementioned critics and consultants (among others), wine industry middlemen in California and New York, and millionaire American winemakers in Napa, Nossiter’s film gets to the core of some of the major issues in today’s global wine industry.

Though the scenery and global scope of the film are impressive, the real richness of this documentary lies in the interviews with long-time wine-making families, such as the De Montilles, the Mondavis, the Antinori and the Frescobaldi. From the Bordelaise widow who admittedly pours the love she once had for her husband into the vines that produce her excellent wines to the elderly Provençal gentleman who refused to sell part of his vineyard to the Mondavis for a tidy sum, Nossiter introduces us to people who truly live for their wine. For them, it’s about something much deeper than sales or ratings. There is a centuries old sense of pride in European winemaking that, in the film, is contrasted sharply with the ratings and profit-driven wine market in the U.S.

A major theme in the film is that of “terroir.” “Terroir” loosely translates as “of the earth,” and, generally speaking, has to do with the minerals and natural properties in the soil that influence the taste of the grape. However, throughout the film, Nossiter shows us that “terroir” is a complex concept, that has as much to do with families, tradition and culture as it has to do with soil- all of these elements shape the wine that ends up in your glass.

Whether you’re an European traveler, oenophile, an international documentary lover, or a curious consumer, this film is sure to be quite thought provoking and may just change your wine purchasing habits for good.

Mondovino is available on Netflix and Amazon.com.

Written by Jen Westmoreland Bouchard for EuropeUpClose.Com

España - a wonderful  collection of songs by contemporary artists from across Spain that showcase the country’s diverse yet accessible music styles. The modern music of Spain is a  blend of old and new, reflecting tradition, diverse regional cultures and international influences. This collection features music from  flamenco, to Barcelona’s mestizo (mixed) movement, which incorporates fusions of pop, rock, jazz, reggae, rumba,  flamenco and more.

Italia - features contemporary Italian artists who are part of the newly-popular singer-songwriter scene. These contemporary artists draw from the 50’s  where musicians combined American jazz  with the ballads and folk music of Italy to create carefree, romantic songs. Italia features well-known singer-songwriters Giorgio Conte and Gianmaria Testa, Simone Lo Porto, Alessandro Pitoni, and many more.

Paris – highlights artists from the Nouvelle Scene (New Scene), and features modern takes on classic French chanson. A new school of musicians has given a fresh voice to this vintage sound that is all the rage in Paris. Thomas Ferson, Carla Bruni, Pascal Parisot, Coralie Clémenta and many others are highlighted.

The music of Greece and Turkey are also featured as well as more from Italy, Spain and France.  Putamaya supports many relief organizations and a portion of the proceeds from some of their CDs is donated to support those organizations.

Written by Terri Fogarty for EuropeUpClose.com

Panzano in Chianti

A few years ago, we came across Panzano in Chianti, a tiny Tuscan town with few tourist sights, but with some great places to eat and drink. If you are a foodie, you may have heard of its famous butcher, if not, here’s the scoop:

The town is  built upon a long, narrow street. At the far end is the Church of Santa Maria which was completely renovated more than 100 years ago. At the other end of the town is the Antica Macelleria Cecchini, a butcher shop owned by master butcher (and showman) Dario Cecchini. He descends from a long line of butchers and has recreated an antique-style macelleria on the site of the family shop which was destroyed during the war. He is an excellent cook, and has done a lot to promote Panzano and traditional Italian food. His shop is a tourist attraction as well as a place to buy unusual cuts of fresh and prepared meats. When you arrive, if you can get past the mob at the door, you will be offered a sample of fine Chianti wine from Dario’s own vineyard, as well as samples of his sausage, olive oil, bread, “tuscan butter” and whatever he is offering that day. People come from all over to taste his meat and porchetta.

Dario has also opened a restaurant, Solociccio, that serves several courses of, you guessed it, meat. The dinners are  served family style at tables seating 12. It is open for two seatings Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 7 to 9 p.m. and 9 to 11 p.m.; Sundays, 1 to 3 p.m. Reservations highly recommended.
Via Chiantigiana 5
Panzano in Chianti0
11-39-055-852-727.

Directly across the street is a wonderful wine bar, Enoteca Baldi, where we enjoyed a great lunch and a nice visit with the friendly owners.
Piazza Bucciarelli, 25, Panzano in Chianti; 011-39-055-852-843

Market Day
Panzano in Chianti hosts a well attended market every Sunday morning until 1 pm in the main square (Piazza Bucciarelli). You’ll find flowers, vegetables, cheese, fruit, roasted chicken, clothes, hardware and more. All shops in Panzano in Chianti are open on Sunday until 1 p.m.

Vino al Vino
This  wine festival is held on the third weekend in September  in the main square of Panzano (Piazza Bucciarelli). Wine from many of the Panzano wineries is available for sampling and you will surely enjoy the  fine, festive atmosphere accompanied by live music on Saturday and Sunday afternoon.
-Terri Fogarty

Erfurt, Germany

Have you heard of Erfurt, Germany? We hadn’t until doing a tour of Germany a couple of years ago. Erfurt is a beautiful, culturally rich city, set smack dab in the center of Germany. The capital of Germany’s Thuringia region, Erfurt boasts one of the best preserved historic centers in Germany. The old town is built around the Dom Platz, a huge square dominated by the Cathedral of  St. Mary ( Mariendom) and the St. Severus Church (Severi-Kirche), a former Benedictine Abbey. The Rathaus (City Hall)  is located on Fischmarkt square and is really worth touring. The interior is decorated with historical frescoes depicting the lives of Martin Luther (who lived in Erfurt for awhile)  and others. And the Anger Museum, partially closed for restoration at this time, houses a collection of important German paintings.

While we spent a full two-plus days in this charming, historically significant city, we were not able to see and do all that we want. We only scratched the surface and look forward to a return visit to Erfurt.
– Terri Fogarty

Cerbere, France

On our way back to the Netherlands from a trip to Spain, my friend and I narrowly missed our connecting train in Cerbere, France (Languedoc Roussillon region). All we wanted to do was get home, but the next train wasn’t for a few hours. Tired and disoriented, we wandered towards the sparkling blue water that caught our eye beyond the train tracks. Always up for an adventure, we decided to follow a narrow trail etched into the side of a cliff along the shallow water, which to our surprise, led to a stunning little cove resembling a small lagoon. It was a gorgeous day, and after swimming in the cove we picnicked on some sunny rocks. Munching on fresh sandwiches, we smiled at each other as we realized that missing our train was surely worth this delightful detour.
– Mike Coletta

Paris, je t’aime (”Paris, I love you”) is a 2006 collection of short films about love, and each film examines a different sort of love in the City of Lights (romantic, platonic, friendship, parental). The overall film and the transitions between shorts were conceptualized and written by Tristan Carné and Emmanuel Benbihy; Olivier Assayas and Frédéric Auburtin oversaw the directorial aspects of the project. The shorts feature a slew of famous international actors, including Marianne Faithfull, Steve Buscemi, Bob Hoskins, Fanny Ardant, Juliette Binoche, Emily Mortimer, Elijah Wood, Willem Dafoe, Rufus Sewell, Gena Rowlands, and Natalie Portman. Each short is written and/or directed by a different international director- Gurinder Chadha, Sylvain Chomet, Joel and Ethan Coen, Gerard Depardieu, Wes Craven, Alfonso Cuarón, Alexander Payne, and Gus Van Sant- to name a few. The film came out in France in 2006 and then in the U.S. in 2007.

The 18 arrondissements you’ll visit in “Paris, je t’aime” are:

Montmartre (XVIIIe arrondissement)
Quais de Seine (Ve arrondissement)
Le Marais (IVe arrondissement)
Tuileries (Ier arrondissement)
Loin du 16e (XVIe arrondissement; literally: “far from the 16th”)
Porte de Choisy (XIIIe arrondissement)
Bastille (XIIe arrondissement)
Place des Victoires (IIe arrondissement)
Tour Eiffel (VIIe arrondissement)
Parc Monceau (XVIIe arrondissement)
Quartier des Enfants Rouges (IIIe arrondissement)
Place des fêtes (XIXe arrondissement)
Pigalle (IXe arrondissement)
Quartier de la Madeleine (VIIIe arrondissement)
Père-Lachaise (XXe arrondissement)
Faubourg Saint-Denis (Xe arrondissement)
Quartier Latin (VIe arrondissement)
14e arrondissement (XIVe arrondissement)

The short films range from funny to melancholy and are, for the most part, quite thought-provoking. After viewing just a few minutes of each love story, you’ll find yourself wanting more. It’s amazing how attached one can become to a character in the course of five to eight minutes. Of course, the scenery and cultural tidbits are also completely engaging, and reflect the diversity of Paris. I especially appreciate the three shorts that deal with the realities of immigrants living in Paris, as well as some of the grittier shorts about lost love. Above all, I enjoy the way in which each short reflects the flavor and character of the arrondissement in which it was filmed – it’s evident that these directors did their homework. Upon second thought, perhaps this isn’t the film to watch to satisfy your wanderlust- after viewing “Paris, je t’aime,” my desire to hop on a plane to the City of Lights typically becomes even stronger.

I was first introduced to Almodovar’s brilliance through the film “Todo sobre mi madre”/ “All About My Mother” (1999). It is the story of Manuela, who has just lost her son, Esteban in a tragic car accident. Upon reading his journals, she discovers that he harbored fantasies of finding his biological father (whose identity Manuela had always kept secret). In an attempt to reconcile her son’s death, Manuela travels to Barcelona to find Esteban’s father – who was also formerly named Esteban, and is now named Lola the Pioneer.

Curious to see what else Almodovar had to offer, I watched “Hable con ella”/”Talk to Her” (2002), and was not disappointed. The film depicts the stories of Benigno (a healthcare professional) and Marco (a travel writer), two men awaiting the recovery of their respective comatose lovers, Alicia, a beautiful dance student and Lydia, a famous matador who was gored by a bull. In typical Almodovar fashion, the story unfolds through a series of nonlinear flashbacks and flash forward scenes that recount the lives of these unfortunate couples. “Talk to Her” is much darker than “All About My Mother,” but just as compelling.

My favorite Almodovar film is “Volver” (2006), the film for which Penelope Cruz was nominated for an Academy Award. I find it to be the perfect combination of ironic humor and drama, the pacing is near perfect, and the acting is superb. “Volver” is the story of Raimunda (Cruz) and Sole, two sisters facing myriad challenges in their personal lives. A few years before the film begins, their parents died in a fire in their village. When Sole returns to the village for the funeral of their elderly Aunt Paula, she encounters the ghost of her mother. The two sisters soon discover why their mother’s ghost has returned to earth- to help both of them at crucial moments in their lives and to clear up misconceptions related to their family history.

For a healthy dose of Spanish cinema this fall, I highly recommend these three films. They will certainly make an impression and, if you’re anything like me, leave you wanting more.

All three of these Almodovar films are available on DVD.

If I can get to our Netflix queue before my husband does, I typically load it full of the latest French films (or older ones that I haven’t yet seen). I became a fan of both “Avenue Montaigne” and “Mon meilleur ami” as soon as I viewed them. Since then, I’ve used both in myriad culture classes I’ve taught and they have become part of my personal film collection. The thematic link between the two is the notion of finding oneself, but always with the help of others.

“Mon meilleur ami” (English title: “My Best Friend”)
Directed by Patrice Leconte (2006)
“Mon meilleur ami” is the story of a self-consumed Parisian antique dealer, Francois (Daniel Auteuil), who finds himself in the lonely position of having no friends (yet trying to keep this fact a secret). His business partner challenges him to a bet; to reveal his best friend to her in 10 days. So, Francois sets about trying to find someone to pose as his best friend and ends up getting more than he bargained for. This is a tender, light-hearted film that is also infused with quite a bit of comedy. The French are known for their “special” brand of comedy, one that doesn’t always translate well to the American screen. However, the fresh comedic approach, timing and skillful acting throughout “Mon meilleur ami” are sure to make you crack a smile, even giggle a bit, I’m willing to bet.

“Fauteuils d’orchestre” (English title: “Avenue Montaigne”)
Directed by Danièle Thompson (2006)
Jessica (Cécile de France) is a spirited woman from the French countryside who comes to Paris and ends up waiting tables at a fashionable bistrot in an affluent quartier (neighborhood). Though the narrative focuses primarily on Jessica, subplots revolving around the bistrot’s clientele are skillfully woven into the film (American viewers will be entertained by Sidney Pollack’s cameo). The plot culminates with one eventful evening during which a wealthy art collector auctions off his life’s work and a conflicted classical pianist gives a concert in the auction and performance halls adjacent to the bistrot.
In addition to focusing primarily on relationships with others, both films are injected with a healthy dose of anti-materialism. Francois in “Le meilleur ami” and the art collector in “Avenue Montaigne” both choose to hold on to their relationships and memories instead of their prized belongings, a perspective many American viewers could benefit from.
Both of these films are available on Netflix and on Amazon.

Do you dream of buttery croissants? Have you ever quested to find the best salade niçoise or canard confit in France? Would you rather drive halfway across town to find the most traditional baguette than settle for the mediocre rendition at your local grocery store? Does the idea of researching and preparing a traditional coq au vin or boeuf bourguignon sound more appealing than going out for a steak?  If you answered yes to any of these questions, then you and I have much in common and I hope we get to share a meal together someday. Until then, I hope you enjoy my recommended Francophile foodie reading.

Au Revoir to All That: Food, Wine, and the End of France

by Michael Steinberger (2009)

This new release by Michael Steinberger examines the state of French food today, which, as he explains, is inextricably linked to the politics of globalization.  He discusses how the famed Michelin Guide has actually hindered innovation in French cuisine, and how many French chefs have begun to look to nearby Spain for inspiration. The declining state of the French economy has also taken its toll on the restaurant industry. Few French can afford to eat in France’s finer restaurants due to the nearly 20% tax (this was recently changed, however, and currently stands at 5.5%). Moreover, the French government continues to interfere with agriculture, wine, food, and restaurants industry, producing negative consequences.  Au Revoir to All That uses French culinary culture as a wide-angle lens through which to view France’s challenges in the face of globalization. An interesting read for foodies, sociologists, and those interested in French culture and politics.

Clotilde’s Edible Adventures in Paris

by Clotilde Dusoulier (2008)

Dusoulier became an overnight sensation thanks to the success of her blog, “Chocolate and Zucchini”. Her most recent book, Clotilde’s Edible Adventures in Paris, is part travel guide, part recipe book. The first part of the book, organized by arrondissement, provides dining suggestions for all tastes and budgets. The second part features lists of markets, bakeries, cheese shops and other specialty outlets to make your Parisian food shopping a snap.

Scattered throughout this aesthetically pleasing book are suggestions on restaurant  etiquette, the best time to dine, etc., as well as scads of tempting recipes. Dusoulier’s conversational style makes for a fun and informative read. An added bonus: the book is small enough to fit in your purse. I always have it on hand when I’m in Paris.

The Sweet Life in Paris: Delicious Adventures in the World’s Most Glorious – and Perplexing – City

by David Lebovitz (2009)

I struggled with whether to include this “hot off the press” book here or in my “Travel Reading: Personal Narratives on Life in France” post, since it truly fits in either. Half memoir, half foodie lit, Lebovitz, celebrated pastry chef and Chez Panisse alumnus, gives us a page turning memoir (including lots of recipes) that will expand your understanding of France’s culinary traditions (and some cultural nuances not related to food at all!). I enjoyed this book both for Lebovitz’s cheeky writing style and for the variety and quality of the recipes, both savory and sweet.

All of these books are available at Amazon.com.

Reda, who has nothing in common with his father, finds it difficult to accommodate him when approached about the trip. The sparse dialogue and limited interactions between the two characters at the beginning of the film highlight this familial divide. The conservative, rigid father serves as a foil to the liberal, non-religious Reda.  Their myriad personality differences, both major and subtle, provide fodder for a cultural and generational clash that structures the entire film.  It may come as no surprise that eventually these divergent protagonists grow in their respect for one another.  However, despite this predictable ending, the film is engaging and the ending scenes reach an unanticipated pitch of emotional intensity.

The title, “Le Grand Voyage,” (“the big trip”) sets the tone for a simple, touching tale in which the down-to-earth, linear plot line and limited dialogue provide the backdrop for complex and nuanced acting. Cazalé makes an impression with his portrayal of the frustrated, melancholy Reda.  With his furrowed brow and disinterested posture, he physically captures the essence of a sulky teen. Ferroukhi’s astute writing magnifies the ideological separation between the two characters:
Reda: “Why didn’t you fly to Mecca? It’s a lot simpler.”

Father: “When the waters of the ocean rise to the heavens, they lose their bitterness to become pure again… “

Reda: “What?”

Father: “The ocean waters evaporate as they rise to the clouds. And as they evaporate they become fresh. That’s why it’s better to go on your pilgrimage on foot than on horseback, better on horseback than by car, better by car than by boat, better by boat than by plane.”

“Le grand voyage” beautifully depicts the delicate tensions between first and second-generation immigrants failing to accept each other’s value systems.  A Moroccan-born immigrant to France himself, Ferroukhi understands this dynamic and skillfully translates it to the screen.  On a global scale, the film provides a portrait of a Muslim family living in France that challenges and debunks certain myths regarding Islam, and underscores the similarities between father-son relationships that exist in all cultures.

The film is available with English subtitles on Netflix and other rental companies.

“LE GRAND VOYAGE” (France, 2004)
Running Time: 108 Minutes

Cast and Crew:
Starring: Nicolas Cazalé as Réda
Starring:  Mohamed Majd as The Father
Director: Ismaël Ferroukhi
Writer: Ismaël Ferroukhi
Editor: Tina Baz
Cinematography: Katell Dijan