Saint -Raphaël

There are many reasons to visit the seaside city of Saint- Raphaël, not least of which are the bountiful markets.  To stock up on fresh fruits and vegetables, flowers, cheese, breads and other artisanal products, head to one of Saint -Raphaêl’s many food markets held every morning at Place Victor Hugo and Place de la Republique, every Monday morning at Place Boulouris (in front of the post office), and every Wednesday morning in Place Giannetti.

In the fascinating Vieille Ville (old city), you’ll find the Eglise des Templiers, a well-preserved12th-century church. In the courtyard you can see ruins of a Roman aqueduct that once brought water from Fréjus. Near the Eglise des Templiers, you’ll find the Musée d’Archéologie Sous-Marine (Museum of Underwater Archaeology), home to an impressive display of anchors, ancient diving equipment, and other maritime paraphernalia. Many of these objects are from a sunken Roman ship discovered by Jacques Cousteau just off the coast of Saint-Raphaël.

Be sure to take a stroll down one of the wide promenades on the seafront. Wind through pristine beaches and world class hotels until you come to the large pyramid commemorating Napoleon’s return to France from Egypt (Avenue du Commandant-Guilbaud).

Finish off your day with a delicious, earthy dinner at L’Arbousier, Philippe Troncy’s inviting Provençal restaurant (also located in Cannes, Fréjus and St. Tropez).

Fréjus

Fréjus’ collection of Roman ruins draws visitors from around the world. The Amphithéâtre (Les Arènes), held up to 10,000 spectators in Roman times. Today it is a venue for concerts and Spanish-style corridas (bullfights). Just outside of town, you’ll find the Théâtre-Romain. Though not as well-preserved as the Amphithéâtre, the lower section is also used for several concerts throughout the summer. To the northwest of the theater, it is possible to see the remaining sections of the 25-mile aqueduct that used to transport fresh water to Fréjus’s water tower.

After your Roman expedition, I recommend heading to Les Potiers for reasonably priced, fresh Provençal fare. Their crayfish ravioli with ricotta cheese and hazelnut oil is an absolute dream.
135 rue des Potiers

Written By Jen Westmoreland Bouchard for EuropeUpClose.com

We found an eco tour company based in the area called “Food for thought tours”  where clients can hand pick local organic ingredients for their hands-on cooking class and stay in a “Hôtel Au Naturel,” an eco-hotel committed to ecological responsibility. Travelers get to meet local producers of  jam, goat cheese, and honey as well as taste the best that the area has to offer. This company gives travelers a chance to experience the products of influential restaurateurs, chefs, inns, vineyards and farms. They even host a “green” event series that celebrates and supports local communities and healthy food systems. The founder of this tour company, Carolyn Centeno, is dedicated to the environment. She worked in restaurant design and environmental architecture for four years, but has since traded in her t-squares and coffee addiction to work with the organic farms, eco-hotels, sustainable chateaus, and kitchen gardens of Southern France.

One of my favorite spots in Provence is the medieval village of Entrevaux. It features a fabulous draw-bridge entrance high across a river and there are walled walkways that zigzag up through 20 fortified doorways to a 17th century citadel which dominates the village. The Gothic Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption church is quite grand, dating from 15th and 17th centuries, with a large, ornate facade. The walled town itself requires a good bit more time to explore than one might think, or you’ll miss a lot. I suggest that you get the walking tour guide from the Office de Tourisme and put it to good use.

There are a multitude of attractions for the green traveler. In the nearby village of Le Baux de Provence you can visit an incredible winery with a fantastic organic and biodynamic reputation. In the same village (voted one of the prettiest villages in France) you’ll find the Cathedrale d’Images, an astounding art concept with something of a cult following. A disused quarry is used as a giant ‘canvass’ onto which works of art are projected. France also happens to have some incredible islands in the Mediterranean and, while we all know Corsica, very few people know about Porquerolles and Port Cros. These two gems have been described as the ‘European Caribbean’ and, in terms of green travel, visiting them is an absolute must.

Provence certainly provides a treasure trove of sensory experiences with its wonderful food, wine and scenery straight out of a landscape painting. And, there are so many walking, biking and hiking tours to enjoy while minimizing your carbon footprint. Just remember, after partaking in what may be your most memorable wine tasting experience,  getting back to your hotel on your bicycle may be difficult.

Viva La France!

The layout of Marseilles makes it very accessible for tourists and “faux locals” such as myself. The Canbière (the city’s main boulevard) spans the city from the Vieux Port (Old Port) to the Réformés quartier (district). Toward the center of the city, there are two pedestrian zones- Rue St. Ferréol and Cours Julien- both great areas for shopping and soaking in Marseillaise culture.

I spent most of my time in the Vieux Port, which is in the middle of two old forts- Fort Saint-Nicolas and Fort Saint-Jean. There is a grounded energy in the Vieux Port that always invigorated me and made me feel like I was sitting smack dab in the middle of “la vraie France” (“real France”). I remember one afternoon in the Vieux Port when I grabbed a kir (dry white wine with blackcurrant liqueur) and sat outside reading Dumas’ The Count of Monte Cristo, glancing up once in a while in the direction of the Château d’If in the Bay of Marseilles (where the novel is set).

Indeed, Marseilles is a mecca for lovers of French literature- it is the birthplace of such greats as Victor Gélu, Valère Bernard, Pierre Bertas, Edmond Rostand and André Roussin. French art aficionados will appreciate the fact that Auguste Renoir, Paul Cézanne, Georges Braque and Raoul Dufy frequented Marseilles and created many masterpieces on the shores of l’Estaque (a small port on the far end of the bay).

Marseilles, considered to be one of the cultural centers of France, is home to a large opera house (Opéra de Marseille), several historical and maritime museums, numerous high-profile theaters (la Criée, le Gymnase and the Théâtre Toursky), cinemas dedicated to various genres of film and dozens of galleries. La Friche arts centre (built in a former match factory near the St. Charles station) hosts concerts, lectures, workshops, dance performances and exhibitions.

There are several “must buy” products when one visits Marseilles. The first is the Tarot de Marseille- the most commonly used tarot card deck. Also, it would be a shame to leave Marseilles (or Provence in general) without a bottle of Patsis (anis flavored liqueur) and a jar of tapanade made with delicious Provençal olives. Lastly, Marseilles is famous for it’s santons – small, traditional figurines used in Provençal Christmas crèches. In November and December, there is a santon fair each Sunday in the Cours d’Estienne d’Orves (the large square off the Vieux-Port).

Provence Weather and Le Mistral
Even in December, the southern French region of Provence maintains lovely temperatures in the 50s and 60s. This is due in part to a cold, dry wind called “le Mistral.”  Le Mistral is the result of an atmospheric phenomenon that occurs mainly in the winter and spring throughout the Mediterranean gulf.  During this time, the Mistral usually develops as a cold front moving down across France. The air piles up in the Alps, spills over the tops of the mountains, and comes down into the Rhône valley.

The Mistral has been known to blow continuously for several days at a time (at speeds as high as 62 miles per hour). Often, Marseilles and St.Tropez get the brunt of this cold, strong wind as it exits to the sea. Most of the trees throughout Provence are bent in the direction of the Mistral, and it has been known to cause damage to crops. However, of most interest to tourists is the fact that the Mistral blows the bad weather out of Provence, thereby allowing the sun to shine almost year round.

Provence’s Inhabitants and Culture
In terms of social classes, “everyone” inhabits the large region that is Provence. Of course, you can find many expensive homes and villas throughout Provence, but housing in parts of the region’s larger cities like Aix-en-Provence, and Marseilles is typically affordable (depending on the neighborhood). The Provençal practice of shopping 2 or 3 times a week at local markets also helps to keep costs low and reduces waste.

There are communities of artists and artisans who take up residence in Provence’s many medieval villages (or nearby) and make their money selling handicrafts and paintings (mostly landscapes and nature scenes) to tourists. In addition, the large city of Marseilles is considered to be an art “mecca” of Europe, and is home to galleries showing both traditional and modern art. Sociologically speaking, Provence is a very diverse region and its artistic culture reflects this fact.

Provence Wines and Vineyards
Vines have been cultivated in Provence since the Middle Ages, but it’s only in the past 30 years or so that these regional wines have gotten any attention. Both wineries and “caves” (wine shops/cellars located near the vineyards where you can buy wine in bulk at excellent prices) are very popular with locals, tourists and “faux” locals like myself (when I lived in nearby Cote d’Azur).

There are 11 official wine appellations in Provence (an appellation has to do with the area in which the vines are grown and the soil type): Bandol, Bellet, Cassis, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence,  Coteaux de Pierrevert, Cotes-de-Provence , Côtes de Provence-Sainte Victoire, Côtes du Rhône, Coteaux Varois , Les Beaux de Provence and Palette. Provence is especially known for its rosé wines that are earthy and delicious.

For whatever reason you choose to travel to the south of France, you’ll find that Provence will be everything you hoped for… and a lot more.

From December 5, 2009 through January 6, 2010, Nice’s Place Massena will be home to sixty chalet stalls offering a wide range of craft work based mainly on Christmas products, including three specifically dedicated to Russian crafts.

This holiday celebration  offers an enchanted winter setting with a forest of 750 pine trees, a skating rink, ice-sculpture, Christmas parade, end of year concerts and entertainment centered on Russian folklore. A ferris wheel and children’s rides add to the fun.

Then, from January 5 to 13, 2010, “Ruskoff”, the Russian Arts and Cinema Festival, will
be celebrating its 11th anniversary at the Nice National Theatre, taking a caustic look at
Russia past and present.

Celebrate a Russian Christmas in Nice and enjoy the festivities, mild climate and winter sunshine!

The best-known landmark of the gorge is Vallon Pont d’Arc, a huge natural bridge arching far above the river. A pleasant way to spend part of a day is to rent kayaks and paddle along the river to the awe-inspiring bridge, perhaps stopping at a beach along the way for a picnic. Shortly after passing under the bridge you can come ashore, where the kayak rental company will meet you with transportation back to your car.  Being on the water allows for an intimacy with the place that tourists who only watch from high on the cliff never experience.

Millennia ago, prehistoric people may have floated the river too, in hand-carved boats. You can see remnants of their lives on the plateau above the river, where standing stones remain, the dolmens and menhirs that had deep meaning in ancient times. In caves dotting the cliffs, arrowheads and knives are often found and, in some, paintings from Paleolithic times.

Along the cliff road are signs to the grottes (caves) or avens (deep holes).  The most famous by far is Grotte Chauvet, near the Pont d’Arc. Discovered in 1994, its walls have more than 300 designs painted and engraved some 30,000 years ago. There are rhinoceroses, lions, bears, owls, mammoths and more, all beautifully rendered and in amazing perspective. The Chauvet works are the oldest found in the world so far.
The cave is closed to the public, but there’s an excellent exhibit in the nearby village of Vallon Pont d’Arc, open from mid-March to mid-November. It shows cave painting replicas and much more. There are artifacts from archeological finds, a reconstruction of a prehistoric dwelling, and full-size animal reproductions. At the end, there’s a movie that shows more about Chauvet Cave.

Quite different is Grottes de St-Marcel d’Ardèche, which is open to visitors. Walking down the long main passageway, you come to an array of beautiful rimstone pools, perhaps a hundred of them. Continuing through this enchanting place, you arrive at the last chamber, full of stalactites, stalagmites and other mineral formations. Classical music and lighting add to the effect.

L’Aven Grotte de la Forestiére, discovered in 1966, is open April to September. The cave has several levels, formed at different time periods. Near the surface are roots from trees that grew into the cave for its water. On a lower level, hundreds of animal bones were found, some from animals now extinct. In one chamber, the animals and fish that once lived here adapted to the dark environment and were eyeless and colorless.

The Grotte de la Madeleine contains beautiful and irregular formations set off by special lighting. This cave, set into the side of the cliff, can be reached from the river or from the plateau above. There’s a gift shop, snack shop, and a viewpoint overlooking the gorge. 

Aven de Marzal was investigated in 1892 but left and forgotten until 1949, and now is open for guided tours daily between April and October. It has numerous stalactites, stalagmites, cauldrons and multi-colored crystals. A museum shows the equipment used for early explorations. There’s also a “”zoo” with life-sized models of prehistoric animals.

Finally, there is the splendid Aven d’Orgnac, an enormous cavern filled with strange and eery shapes, all carved by nature over eons.  A staircase and pathway descend into the cavern, where lights show off the formations (you return to the top by elevator). It is open year-round.

Some of the Saint Tropez spots I’ll be visiting again include:

Musée de l’annonciade
The charming Annonciade Museum showcases “avant-garde” masterpieces by notable French artists who were active between the years of 1890-1950 such as Signac, Cross, Derain, Marquet, and my favorites, Matisse and Rouault. This museum is a must-see for any fan of Pointilism or Fauvism.
Quai de l’Epi Le Port
83990 St-Tropez
Telephone : +33 (0)4 94 17 84 10
Fax : +33 (0)4 94 97 87 24

Le Marché à la Place de Lices (Tuesday and Saturday)
Each Tuesday and Saturday morning, Place des Lices is bustling with stall owners, locals and tourists. Here you can find many local products including olives, goat’s cheese, chestnut cream, jam garlic, thyme, rosemary, local fruits and vegetables, lavender sachets, soap scented with olive oil or honey, and Provençal textiles and pottery.
Place des Lices
83990 Saint-Tropez

Nuits du Château de La Moutte Festival (late July and early August)
If you find yourself in Saint Tropez during the summer months, be sure to check out the free performances during the Nuits du Château de La Moutte Festival (Nights at the Moutte Château), featuring family-friendly music, theater and dance performances in front of Saint Tropez’s historic chateau.

La Tarte Tropézienne Boulangerie Patisserie
Don’t worry, this foodie wouldn’t dare leave out the best Patisserie in town. After all, they are the ones we have to thank for the invention of the cream-filled Tarte Tropézienne in 1955.
1, bd Louis Blanc,
2, rue Clemenceau,
Place des Lices
83990 Saint-Tropez
Telephone : +33 (0)4 94 97 19 77

La Cave de Saint Tropez
Here’s a little something for you oenophiles. The easily accessible Saint-Tropez wine cellar is situated just behind the Place des Lices. They offer free tastings of AOC Provençal reds, rosés and whites. They’ve been in the business since 1908, and they sure know what they are doing!
Avenue Paul Roussel
83990 Saint-Tropez
Telephone : +33 (0)4 94 97 01 60

No matter what you choose to do, I’m sure you’ll succumb to Saint Tropez’s charm, just as I did. Keep an eye out for celebrities while you’re there- you’re bound to run into a few who have excellent taste, just like you.

The layout of Le Cézanne is similar to most brasseries in the south, with some tables inside and the majority of them outside under large umbrellas to protect clients from the intense Provençal sun. Without going overboard, Le Cézanne takes a cue from its namesake, and is decorated using warm colors and some tasteful art on the walls of the inner restaurant.

As we crossed the threshold from the street into the outside seating area, we were greeted by a friendly server who offered us a comfortable spot overlooking Place de la Rotonde. After ordering a regional rosé, I was tempted by one of the daily special’s, a reasonably priced tarte aux légumes (like a thick quiche with mixed vegetables. For 6 euros, it came accompanied by a generous salade verte (lettuce salad) and, of course, a basket of bread and butter. To end our lunch, my husband and I shared a cheese plate (the wedge of Roquefort was divine) and a large cup of fresh strawberries from the local market. My husband is still talking about the quality of these sweet, succulent berries even as I type this.

To top it off, our server was attentive, genuine, and treated us like locals (not like uncultivated tourists which is often the case in Parisian eateries). Though I communicated with him in French, he was very excited to try out his (perfect) English with my husband.
Neither my husband nor I are bothered by paying fairly for a quality dining experience, however, like most price-conscious travelers, we are always delighted when the bill comes in well under budget. Our essentially two-course meal with a 75 ml. pitcher of wine and 2 cafés came to just over 25 euros. Vive Le Cézanne!

50, Rue Espariat,
13100 Aix-En-Provence
Tel. : +(33) 4 42 93 30 70

The delicious flavor (and high cost) of fruit confit is due to its laborious preparation. The term confit comes from the French verb confire (to preserve). This verb first appeared in France during Medieval times when fruit was cooked and preserved in sugar so it would keep without refrigeration. Today, fruit confit is considered a delicacy. To be considered a true confit, all of the water in the fruit must be completely replaced by sugar. Whole fruit is submerged in sugary syrup for up to 3 months (depending on the size of the fruit). The syrup is changed every two days. Small fruit such as cherries, strawberries, and small oranges do not take as long to confit, and therefore are less expensive than larger fruits. If you are lucky enough to stumble upon a whole confit pineapple, melon, or even pumpkin, the price will most likely be very high.

Confiserie Florian (candy shop) in Nice offers free guided tours (in 5 major European languages) during which you will learn more about the confit process, and try samples of their tasty products (the rose petal confit is delightful!). Large groups need a reservation (which can easily be secured via phone). After the tour, you can visit the factory shop where gourmet sweets are available for purchase at factory prices.

The first Confiserie Florian opened in 1949, in Les Gorges du Loup (near Grasse) and still welcomes visitors today. The Nice location opened in 1974 in Nice’s Vieux Port (harbour area). If you find yourself in Grasse or Nice, I highly suggest exploring this sweet slice of culture and picking up some authentic, time-honored treats to bring home to family and friends while you are there. Products available in their shops include:

Aperitifs and flower liqueurs
Candied fruit
Chocolate-dipped citrus
Jams and preserves
Pâtes de Fruit
Florian Chocolates
Candied chestnuts
Crystallized flowers
Syrups, honeys
Hard candies
Caramels, almonds
Calissons, Nougats
Recipe books
Coffee table books

Original Confiserie Florian
Le Pont du Loup
06140 – Tourrettes-sur-Loup (F)
Tél : 00 33 (0)493 59 32 91

Confiserie Florian
14, Quai Papacino
06 300 Nice
Tél : 00 33 (0)4 93 55 43 50

Avignon’s architecture is marked by centuries of papal history. One of the main tourist attractions is Le Palais des Pâpes (The Palace of the Popes), which was built in the 14th century and now overlooks a lively square. The museums housed in the Petit Palais and Palais du Roure (not far from The Palace of the Popes) are also worth a visit. Of course, the famous Pont d’Avignon (Le pont de Saint Bénézet) is a must see. Stop a few kilometers out of the town for the best photo opportunities.

I simply enjoyed wandering through Avignon’s winding streets, admiring the private mansions and lovely facades. One of the most beautiful streets is rue Joseph Vernet, near  the Calvet and Requien Museums. The Place de l’Horloge is a great spot for people-watching.  However, if you want great food at better prices, it’s best to seek out a brasserie on one of the low-key side streets off of Place de l’Horloge (not on the touristy rue de la République). The “clock square” houses the grandiose Hôtel de Ville with its large animated clock, the Opéra, and a lovely carousel. From this central location, tourists can access routes to the Palais de Pâpes, and Pont d’Avignon.

While you’re near Place de l’Horloge, look for a handsome gentleman selling silver jewelry. If it’s Sarl Demiurgos, you’re in for a treat. His creations are lovely and very reasonably priced. Sarl is a great conversationalist in both French and English. I have fond memories of our chat and I’m still enjoying the unique sterling pieces I purchased from him.

Avignon is famous on an international scale for it’s annual theater festival, Festival d’Avignon , in July and August.  The tradition began in 1947, and now Avignon welcomes nearly 120,000 spectators and theater aficionados each summer. Running parallel to the Festival d’Avignon is Festival Off d’Avignon (The Off Festival), a series of street shows and labs set up by aspiring actors. These performances typically take place late at night after the plays sponsored by the theater festival have finished for the evening.

If you’re looking for a charming city with a grand history and thriving arts scene, you will surely not be disappointed by a stay in lively Avignon.