This photo was taken by Bill Fogarty for EuropeUpClose.com in March 2010.

Tarascon is noted for producing the famous, colorful fabrics of Provence. Many are made at the Carles Demery factory and sold in dozens of shops and outdoor markets. Some are on display in a museum in the center of town.

Tarascon is 23 kilometers (14 miles) south of Avignon and lies on the east side of the Rhone River. The busy town has narrow medieval streets, sun-filled squares with flowers and plane and palm trees, and interesting markets.  
The solid, towered castle on the bank of the Rhone dates from the 15th century. It was used as a prison for a time, but was restored and holds some fine 17th century tapestries. The chateau is near St. Martha’s Collegiate Church, where tradition says the biblical Martha (the one who tamed the Tarasque) is buried. The church is part Romanesque and part Gothic, with a 3rd century crypt. The Cloister of the Cordeliers at St. Jacques Church is a pretty cloister built for Franciscan monks in the 15th century. The name comes from the cords the monks wore on their robes.

My favorite part of Tarascon is its wonderful markets, especially the flower shows and sales. The town square looks like a field of brightly colored flowers during the Orchid Festival and Flower Fair in spring. The grape harvest is celebrated in the fall. Tuesday, the regular market day, is a great time to browse and find souvenirs such as olive dishes and squares of olive oil soaps.

For a gracious, friendly welcome in a former mansion, Hotel de Provence is a good lodging choice. It has 5 rooms and a sunny terrace – an exceptionally nice small hotel.  North of Tarascon, in the village of Boulbon, there’s a delightful hotel of charm, La Bastide de Boulbon. In a lovely, quiet setting, it has 10 rooms, a swimming pool, and hospitable hosts. They offer dinners by candlelight under 200-year-old plane trees.

Written by Marilyn McFarlane for EuropeUpClose.com

Photo by Cheryl Tucker for EuropeUpClose.com

Amid all the glamor and luxury, the hotel that seems to stand out  is the 5-star  Chateau de la Messardiere, located just a few minutes from the buzzing center of Saint-Tropez . This internationally renowned fairytale style hotel has modern décor but also has a Moorish flair. The hotel has flagstone walkways, mashrabiyas and lava bathrooms. It also boasts wrought iron railings, carved stone columns and original art mosaics which make this hotel elegant and unique. The panoramic views over the bay of St Tropez and beaches of Pampelonne are incredible and would be of interest to any photographer. All rooms have terraces and there is not a bad view in the hotel. The grounds are filled with every tree possible including eucalyptus, pine, palm, olive, cypress and box trees. All plants and trees on the grounds are treated and maintained with environmentally friendly techniques and products. There is an Olympic size solar heated mirror pool and an extensive well-being spa. There is something for everyone to be able to relax and take in the peaceful surroundings. There is even a free 24 hour shuttle to the nearest beach and to city center.

An important part of the hotel’s motto and philosophy is that it strives to respect the environment. It has earned its green reputation thanks to an efficient management policy that the hotel has been putting into practice over many years. The hotel has an environmental charter, drawn up by the staff that has a list of concrete measures intended to promote continuous awareness and responsible environmental behavior of the hotel. The hotel is located on 25 acres of an official French Bird Protection League and Birdlife ornithological reserve. The hotel’s manager Gerald Hardy is committed to sustained development and states “it’s not enough to be green simply as a fashion statement” Château de La Messardière takes numerous measures to economize and preserve natural resources.

If you have the choice, come here in May, June or September; without the crowd’s one can take the time to admire the charming little streets and alleys in St Tropez. Whether you are a local who is getting away from the hustle and bustle or a tourist who is seeking the vacation of a lifetime on the French Riviera, the Chateau de La Messardière is the place for you.

Written by Jen Westmoreland Bouchard for Europeupclose.com.

Saint -Raphaël

There are many reasons to visit the seaside city of Saint- Raphaël, not least of which are the bountiful markets.  To stock up on fresh fruits and vegetables, flowers, cheese, breads and other artisanal products, head to one of Saint -Raphaêl’s many food markets held every morning at Place Victor Hugo and Place de la Republique, every Monday morning at Place Boulouris (in front of the post office), and every Wednesday morning in Place Giannetti.

In the fascinating Vieille Ville (old city), you’ll find the Eglise des Templiers, a well-preserved12th-century church. In the courtyard you can see ruins of a Roman aqueduct that once brought water from Fréjus. Near the Eglise des Templiers, you’ll find the Musée d’Archéologie Sous-Marine (Museum of Underwater Archaeology), home to an impressive display of anchors, ancient diving equipment, and other maritime paraphernalia. Many of these objects are from a sunken Roman ship discovered by Jacques Cousteau just off the coast of Saint-Raphaël.

Be sure to take a stroll down one of the wide promenades on the seafront. Wind through pristine beaches and world class hotels until you come to the large pyramid commemorating Napoleon’s return to France from Egypt (Avenue du Commandant-Guilbaud).

Finish off your day with a delicious, earthy dinner at L’Arbousier, Philippe Troncy’s inviting Provençal restaurant (also located in Cannes, Fréjus and St. Tropez).

Fréjus

Fréjus’ collection of Roman ruins draws visitors from around the world. The Amphithéâtre (Les Arènes), held up to 10,000 spectators in Roman times. Today it is a venue for concerts and Spanish-style corridas (bullfights). Just outside of town, you’ll find the Théâtre-Romain. Though not as well-preserved as the Amphithéâtre, the lower section is also used for several concerts throughout the summer. To the northwest of the theater, it is possible to see the remaining sections of the 25-mile aqueduct that used to transport fresh water to Fréjus’s water tower.

After your Roman expedition, I recommend heading to Les Potiers for reasonably priced, fresh Provençal fare. Their crayfish ravioli with ricotta cheese and hazelnut oil is an absolute dream.
135 rue des Potiers

Written By Jen Westmoreland Bouchard for EuropeUpClose.com

We found an eco tour company based in the area called “Food for thought tours”  where clients can hand pick local organic ingredients for their hands-on cooking class and stay in a “Hôtel Au Naturel,” an eco-hotel committed to ecological responsibility. Travelers get to meet local producers of  jam, goat cheese, and honey as well as taste the best that the area has to offer. This company gives travelers a chance to experience the products of influential restaurateurs, chefs, inns, vineyards and farms. They even host a “green” event series that celebrates and supports local communities and healthy food systems. The founder of this tour company, Carolyn Centeno, is dedicated to the environment. She worked in restaurant design and environmental architecture for four years, but has since traded in her t-squares and coffee addiction to work with the organic farms, eco-hotels, sustainable chateaus, and kitchen gardens of Southern France.

One of my favorite spots in Provence is the medieval village of Entrevaux. It features a fabulous draw-bridge entrance high across a river and there are walled walkways that zigzag up through 20 fortified doorways to a 17th century citadel which dominates the village. The Gothic Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption church is quite grand, dating from 15th and 17th centuries, with a large, ornate facade. The walled town itself requires a good bit more time to explore than one might think, or you’ll miss a lot. I suggest that you get the walking tour guide from the Office de Tourisme and put it to good use.

There are a multitude of attractions for the green traveler. In the nearby village of Le Baux de Provence you can visit an incredible winery with a fantastic organic and biodynamic reputation. In the same village (voted one of the prettiest villages in France) you’ll find the Cathedrale d’Images, an astounding art concept with something of a cult following. A disused quarry is used as a giant ‘canvass’ onto which works of art are projected. France also happens to have some incredible islands in the Mediterranean and, while we all know Corsica, very few people know about Porquerolles and Port Cros. These two gems have been described as the ‘European Caribbean’ and, in terms of green travel, visiting them is an absolute must.

Provence certainly provides a treasure trove of sensory experiences with its wonderful food, wine and scenery straight out of a landscape painting. And, there are so many walking, biking and hiking tours to enjoy while minimizing your carbon footprint. Just remember, after partaking in what may be your most memorable wine tasting experience,  getting back to your hotel on your bicycle may be difficult.

Viva La France!

The layout of Marseilles makes it very accessible for tourists and “faux locals” such as myself. The Canbière (the city’s main boulevard) spans the city from the Vieux Port (Old Port) to the Réformés quartier (district). Toward the center of the city, there are two pedestrian zones- Rue St. Ferréol and Cours Julien- both great areas for shopping and soaking in Marseillaise culture.

I spent most of my time in the Vieux Port, which is in the middle of two old forts- Fort Saint-Nicolas and Fort Saint-Jean. There is a grounded energy in the Vieux Port that always invigorated me and made me feel like I was sitting smack dab in the middle of “la vraie France” (“real France”). I remember one afternoon in the Vieux Port when I grabbed a kir (dry white wine with blackcurrant liqueur) and sat outside reading Dumas’ The Count of Monte Cristo, glancing up once in a while in the direction of the Château d’If in the Bay of Marseilles (where the novel is set).

Indeed, Marseilles is a mecca for lovers of French literature- it is the birthplace of such greats as Victor Gélu, Valère Bernard, Pierre Bertas, Edmond Rostand and André Roussin. French art aficionados will appreciate the fact that Auguste Renoir, Paul Cézanne, Georges Braque and Raoul Dufy frequented Marseilles and created many masterpieces on the shores of l’Estaque (a small port on the far end of the bay).

Marseilles, considered to be one of the cultural centers of France, is home to a large opera house (Opéra de Marseille), several historical and maritime museums, numerous high-profile theaters (la Criée, le Gymnase and the Théâtre Toursky), cinemas dedicated to various genres of film and dozens of galleries. La Friche arts centre (built in a former match factory near the St. Charles station) hosts concerts, lectures, workshops, dance performances and exhibitions.

There are several “must buy” products when one visits Marseilles. The first is the Tarot de Marseille- the most commonly used tarot card deck. Also, it would be a shame to leave Marseilles (or Provence in general) without a bottle of Patsis (anis flavored liqueur) and a jar of tapanade made with delicious Provençal olives. Lastly, Marseilles is famous for it’s santons – small, traditional figurines used in Provençal Christmas crèches. In November and December, there is a santon fair each Sunday in the Cours d’Estienne d’Orves (the large square off the Vieux-Port).

Provence Weather and Le Mistral
Even in December, the southern French region of Provence maintains lovely temperatures in the 50s and 60s. This is due in part to a cold, dry wind called “le Mistral.”  Le Mistral is the result of an atmospheric phenomenon that occurs mainly in the winter and spring throughout the Mediterranean gulf.  During this time, the Mistral usually develops as a cold front moving down across France. The air piles up in the Alps, spills over the tops of the mountains, and comes down into the Rhône valley.

The Mistral has been known to blow continuously for several days at a time (at speeds as high as 62 miles per hour). Often, Marseilles and St.Tropez get the brunt of this cold, strong wind as it exits to the sea. Most of the trees throughout Provence are bent in the direction of the Mistral, and it has been known to cause damage to crops. However, of most interest to tourists is the fact that the Mistral blows the bad weather out of Provence, thereby allowing the sun to shine almost year round.

Provence’s Inhabitants and Culture
In terms of social classes, “everyone” inhabits the large region that is Provence. Of course, you can find many expensive homes and villas throughout Provence, but housing in parts of the region’s larger cities like Aix-en-Provence, and Marseilles is typically affordable (depending on the neighborhood). The Provençal practice of shopping 2 or 3 times a week at local markets also helps to keep costs low and reduces waste.

There are communities of artists and artisans who take up residence in Provence’s many medieval villages (or nearby) and make their money selling handicrafts and paintings (mostly landscapes and nature scenes) to tourists. In addition, the large city of Marseilles is considered to be an art “mecca” of Europe, and is home to galleries showing both traditional and modern art. Sociologically speaking, Provence is a very diverse region and its artistic culture reflects this fact.

Provence Wines and Vineyards
Vines have been cultivated in Provence since the Middle Ages, but it’s only in the past 30 years or so that these regional wines have gotten any attention. Both wineries and “caves” (wine shops/cellars located near the vineyards where you can buy wine in bulk at excellent prices) are very popular with locals, tourists and “faux” locals like myself (when I lived in nearby Cote d’Azur).

There are 11 official wine appellations in Provence (an appellation has to do with the area in which the vines are grown and the soil type): Bandol, Bellet, Cassis, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence,  Coteaux de Pierrevert, Cotes-de-Provence , Côtes de Provence-Sainte Victoire, Côtes du Rhône, Coteaux Varois , Les Beaux de Provence and Palette. Provence is especially known for its rosé wines that are earthy and delicious.

For whatever reason you choose to travel to the south of France, you’ll find that Provence will be everything you hoped for… and a lot more.

From December 5, 2009 through January 6, 2010, Nice’s Place Massena will be home to sixty chalet stalls offering a wide range of craft work based mainly on Christmas products, including three specifically dedicated to Russian crafts.

This holiday celebration  offers an enchanted winter setting with a forest of 750 pine trees, a skating rink, ice-sculpture, Christmas parade, end of year concerts and entertainment centered on Russian folklore. A ferris wheel and children’s rides add to the fun.

Then, from January 5 to 13, 2010, “Ruskoff”, the Russian Arts and Cinema Festival, will
be celebrating its 11th anniversary at the Nice National Theatre, taking a caustic look at
Russia past and present.

Celebrate a Russian Christmas in Nice and enjoy the festivities, mild climate and winter sunshine!

The best-known landmark of the gorge is Vallon Pont d’Arc, a huge natural bridge arching far above the river. A pleasant way to spend part of a day is to rent kayaks and paddle along the river to the awe-inspiring bridge, perhaps stopping at a beach along the way for a picnic. Shortly after passing under the bridge you can come ashore, where the kayak rental company will meet you with transportation back to your car.  Being on the water allows for an intimacy with the place that tourists who only watch from high on the cliff never experience.

Millennia ago, prehistoric people may have floated the river too, in hand-carved boats. You can see remnants of their lives on the plateau above the river, where standing stones remain, the dolmens and menhirs that had deep meaning in ancient times. In caves dotting the cliffs, arrowheads and knives are often found and, in some, paintings from Paleolithic times.

Along the cliff road are signs to the grottes (caves) or avens (deep holes).  The most famous by far is Grotte Chauvet, near the Pont d’Arc. Discovered in 1994, its walls have more than 300 designs painted and engraved some 30,000 years ago. There are rhinoceroses, lions, bears, owls, mammoths and more, all beautifully rendered and in amazing perspective. The Chauvet works are the oldest found in the world so far.
The cave is closed to the public, but there’s an excellent exhibit in the nearby village of Vallon Pont d’Arc, open from mid-March to mid-November. It shows cave painting replicas and much more. There are artifacts from archeological finds, a reconstruction of a prehistoric dwelling, and full-size animal reproductions. At the end, there’s a movie that shows more about Chauvet Cave.

Quite different is Grottes de St-Marcel d’Ardèche, which is open to visitors. Walking down the long main passageway, you come to an array of beautiful rimstone pools, perhaps a hundred of them. Continuing through this enchanting place, you arrive at the last chamber, full of stalactites, stalagmites and other mineral formations. Classical music and lighting add to the effect.

L’Aven Grotte de la Forestiére, discovered in 1966, is open April to September. The cave has several levels, formed at different time periods. Near the surface are roots from trees that grew into the cave for its water. On a lower level, hundreds of animal bones were found, some from animals now extinct. In one chamber, the animals and fish that once lived here adapted to the dark environment and were eyeless and colorless.

The Grotte de la Madeleine contains beautiful and irregular formations set off by special lighting. This cave, set into the side of the cliff, can be reached from the river or from the plateau above. There’s a gift shop, snack shop, and a viewpoint overlooking the gorge. 

Aven de Marzal was investigated in 1892 but left and forgotten until 1949, and now is open for guided tours daily between April and October. It has numerous stalactites, stalagmites, cauldrons and multi-colored crystals. A museum shows the equipment used for early explorations. There’s also a “”zoo” with life-sized models of prehistoric animals.

Finally, there is the splendid Aven d’Orgnac, an enormous cavern filled with strange and eery shapes, all carved by nature over eons.  A staircase and pathway descend into the cavern, where lights show off the formations (you return to the top by elevator). It is open year-round.