Le Festival Européen du Film Indépendant
March 12-March 14 2010
(European  Independent Film Festival) Between March 12- March 14, Paris will welcome over 60 of the top independent films made in Europe last year. Tickets range in price between 5-8 Euros, and all of the films are shown at these two locations:

Cinéma Le Grand Action
5 rue des Ecoles
75005 Paris
Métro : Cardinal Lemoine ou Jussieu

Théâtre le Triomphe
5, Rue Blainville
75005 Paris
Métro : Monge

elles@centrepompidou, women artists in the collections for the National Modern Art Museum
Centre Pompidou
May 27, 2009-February 21, 2011
If you’re a fan of contemporary creations by female artists, head to the Centre Pompidou  this spring (and into next winter) for this multifaceted exhibition. www.centrepompidou.fr

Le Carré des Ateliers de Paris (Paris Artist Expo and Sale)
First Saturday of the month between March and December 2010
From 10am to 7pm, artisans and artists in a variety of genres offer products for sale (including decorative objects, fashion accessories, jewelry, clothing, furniture, sculptures and lamps). Located on the Boulevard Richard Lenoir near Breguet Sabin metro station.
Métro : Bastille lines 1, 5, 8 or Bréguet Sabin line 5

The Paris Opera Ballet presents Siddhartha
March 18 - April 11 2010
With music by composer Bruno Mantovani and set design by visual artist Claud Lévêque, choreographer Angelin Preljocaj explores the story of the man who was to become Buddha.

Yves Saint Laurent at the Petit Palais
March 11 – August 2010
On March 11th, the Musée des Beaux Arts at the Petit Palais will open its first ever exhibition dedicated to high fashion- and the subject of the show is none other than the beloved French designer, Yves Saint Laurent (deceased in 2008). This comprehensive retrospective is sure to please design lovers and fashion aficionados.
Musée du Petit Palais
Avenue Winston Churchill
75008 Paris
01 53 43 40 00
Metro station : Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau or Concorde
RER C, Invalides ; RER A, Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
Full price: €11
Reduced price: €8
Half price: €5.50

Indochine at Stade de France
June 26, 2010
The 80s band Indochine is celebrating their 30th year performing together at Paris’ premier sports arena. Ticket prices range from 40-60 Euros and can be purchased online at

Paris is paradise for walking aficionados. The streets are full of cafes from which to people watch and, of course,  incredible architecture abounds. Many inviting little shops and galleries cover the tree lined streets and the hours can easily fly by when exploring the city on foot. Whenever you can, opt to stroll during your visit to Paris, you’ll see the city in a much more intimate way, stumbling by chance into nooks you would have otherwise missed. This is how I stumbled onto this eco hotel gem.

Hotel Gavarni is located just a few minutes from the Eiffel Tower and Trocadero area at the Passy metro stop. It’s very charming, quaint and although it’s listed as a 3 star hotel, it has 5 eco stars and rooms that are quite comfortable and luxurious. Some of the rooms have views of the Eiffel tower. The hotel is part of a city ecotourism project of sustainable development and environment protection. The hotel is 100% carbon balanced, and it features 100% renewable energy, 100% eco-friendly detergents, and an organic and fair trade breakfast. They hold a strong commitment to sustainability which has allowed them to become the first independent hotel in Paris to be awarded the European Eco lable. This label is awarded to businesses for their eco-friendly efforts, but it doesn’t come easy. In order to be eligible for the label, businesses must meet 84 strict ecological criteria.

Hotel Gavarni manager, Xavier Moraga, a fervent ecologist, worked tirelessly to upgrade the 100-year hotel to meet the eco-label standards, adding pressure regulators for showers, double-glazed windows, and increased energy efficiency. The Gavarni’s electricity derives from 100% renewable energy, and the bath products are guaranteed 100% natural. As in all well run eco hotels, the staff is the biggest part of maintaining the eco vibe of the hotel. The hotel offers environmental training for employees, and when the hotel was being renovated, part of the old furniture, blankets and bedcovers were given to charity. Old appliances and supplies were replaced systematically with green-friendly equipment. The hotel offsets their carbon emissions 100% and they support environmental NGO “Action Carbone”. Moreover, the hotel’s stationery is printed on recycled and FSC paper with green ink. Even trash bags are made out of potato starch rather than plastic and there are eco-action signs in all rooms. All employees come to work on public transportation or their own bicycles. They encourage guests to use the metro, the Vélib (public bicycle rental program) or just walk to discover the city. Also, the hotel offers the services of  Taxis-Bleus, a green hybrid taxi service.

Hotel Gavarni is very proud of their achievements to date and they have recently started offering tours by ParisChicShopping. The Paris eco chic shopping tour is conducted  by public transport or walking to reduce your carbon footprint on the environment. On this tour you will discover eco clothing stores, accessories and green cosmetics. A detour to the organic markets is also planned, where one can sample organic food and wines. This tour is a must for shoppers with a green soul.

It seems that Paris is going greener every day. There is even a tethered hot-air balloon that indicates real-time air pollution levels using a color-coding system that can be seen from up to 20km (12.4 miles). It’s located in the 15th arrondissement.  Visitors can travel 150m into the air to take in 360° panoramic views of Paris. Powered by an eco-friendly hydroelectric winch and 6,000 m3 of helium, the balloon can transport up to 30 people at a time.  Recently, the French have become famous for their crusade against genetically modified food, and it seems that the French have decided to pursue an organic lifestyle with panache and style. There are plenty of ways to make your next April to Paris a green one !

Written by Carla Scott, for EuropeUpClose

Unchanged as if time had stopped, Le Moulin Rouge stands proudly at 82 boulevard de Clichy in Paris’ Montmatre district, the same site where it first opened. The red wings are still there and the mill man and his wife continue to exchange flirtatious looks. As always, twice a night, every night, guests from all over the world walk through its doors, anticipating an evening of magic.

Les ailes de Montmartre (The wings of Montmatre), as it is affectionately called, was born out of the vision of two businessmen: Joseph Oller, who also owned the Olympia, and Charles Zilder. Both men aspired to build the most grandiose temple of music and dance in the world. They found a spot in Montmartre, the red-light district that was filled with cafes, bars and cabarets and attracted crowds looking for the dazzling and the extravagant.

The Moulin Rouge opened on October 6, 1889. Soon after, the public came en mass to discover the extraordinary cabaret with its huge dance floor, mirrors everywhere, and a garden decorated with an elephant. The Moulin Rouge quickly became the “in place”, where people would go to see and be seen. Artists, princes, girls of easy virtue, aristocrats, hooligans, all mingled in an ambiance of sheer euphoria. Soirées, mixing circus, dance and theatre captivated an ever-growing clientele. But, more than anything else, what gives the Moulin Rouge its cachet is the ‘Quadrille,’ an eight-minute dance to a boisterous rhythm where young women lift their legs showing their—underskirts. The erotic, somewhat scandalous choreography enthralled the public. When they discovered it, the British were totally taken with the ‘funny, loud dance that came from France.’  They baptized it the “French Cancan.” More than 100 years later, the show continues, featuring the Doriss Girls, the world’s best French Cancan performers.

Over the years, the show has evolved into spectacular revues. In the 1960’s, after the huge success of Frou-Frou, the director of Le Moulin decided to name each new review with a word beginning with the letter “F”.  This goes for the current show, Féerie, featured since 1999. The average life-span of  a Moulin Rouge revue is 10 years. Most nights are sold out with an annual attendance of 600,000 spectactors. The huge success of Le Moulin should not come as a surprise, knowing what goes into the spectacle.

Eight million Euros were invested to create Féerie. For each performance, about 100 performers wear 1000 costumes made of feathers, rhinestones and sequins, while strutting around in 800 pairs of custom-made shoes. Le Moulin hires only top designers to create these fabulous costumes and each show includes performances from international artists of exceptional talent.

The show, Féerie, will truly take you into a fairy world. It comprises four parts and includes: The Moulin Rouge Today,Yesterday and Forever; Sandokan (the adventures of a pirate in Indonesia); The Circus (the circus comes to town with its parade of clowns, acrobats and six miniature horses); and The Moulin from 1900 to…. a tribute to women’s beauty. And you will hold your breath when a woman dives into a giant aquarium with 40 tons of water and five pythons and twists and twirls her body with amazing grace and, apparently, no fear.

Happy Birthday, Le Moulin Rouge!

To honor this big birthday and for the first time in its history, the Moulin Rouge has launched its own line of accessories – shoes, bags, jewelry inspired by the peformer’s costumes, and gadgets in the Belle Epoque style.  During the day, you can browse through the collection at la Boutique Souvenirs, 11, Rue Lepic.  If you attend a show, you will have access to the Boutique Salon Toulouse Lautrec.

Practical Information:
Interested in a soirée at the Moulin? You can either see the show only (the cost is about 100 Euros per person and includes a half-bottle of champagne) or indulge in the full treatment with dinner and dancing (the cost ranges from 160 to 180 Euros per person.)
Address : 82, Boulevard de Clichy
Metro : Pigalle, Blanche, Place de Clichy

Hotels near le Moulin Rouge

Hotel Moulin Plaza
39 rue Pierre Fontaine
9th arrondissement

Chat Noir Design Hotel
68 Boulevard de Clichy
18th arrondissement

Hotel Le Relais Montmartre
6, rue Constance
18th arrondissement

Written by Brigitte Aflalo-Calderon for EuropeUpClose.com

Midi Vins – Terri and Bill Fogarty
We stumbled upon this corner Paris bistro while walking on the charming rue du Cherche Midi in the 6th Arrondissement. Calling themselves a Bistrot a vins, this little place was packed the night that we were there and then again as we strolled by on another evening. The small, but comfortable space is filled with fresh flowers, and the atmosphere is cozy and romantic. The owners are very particular about their wine selection and have a great wine list. We asked for a half bottle of Bordeaux and the proprietress chose one for us. She opened a full bottle and told us we would only be charged for the wine we consumed. We drank just a half bottle of this very good wine and were charged for just that - a half bottle! Their prices were totally reasonable for a wonderful dinner and great wine.
Closed Sunday and Monday
83, rue du Cherche Midi
75006, Paris
Tel: 01 45 48 33 71
Metro: Vanveau
6th Arrondissement

Astier – Joan and Neil Malling

One of our favorite Paris bistros is Astier. Lively atmosphere, helpful staff, great selection of bistro fare, incredible cheese tray, and a reasonable prix fixe menu (low 30’s).  Reservations highly recommended.
44 rue J.P. Timbaud
Paris 75011
Tel: 01-43 57 16 35
Metro: Parmentier
11th Arrondissement

La Contrescarpe – Jen Westmoreland Bouchard
For a classic French bistro experience, head to La Contrescarpe , near Place de la Contrescarpe at the top of Rue Mouffetard’s hill and around the corner. The fare is fresh and authentic, and the location- at the top of Rue Mouffetard, the street with the best food shops in Paris- is inspiring.
57 , Rue Lacépède
75005 Paris, France
5th Arrondissement

Les Fêtes Galantes - Marilyn McFarlane
This little spot in the 5th is offbeat, to say the least. The décor of Les Fetes Galantes is quirky: tacked-up photos of friends and family, long strands of green vines and colored lights, and a wall covered with bras (yes, underwear, donated by fans of the chef). The menu prices are amazingly low, and the food is terrific. It’s prepared by Bibi, an Egyptian who puts his own touch to traditional French dishes, and served by his vivacious wife Isabelle.  The place is cozy, with space for only 26.  It’s one of the best bargains in Paris.
Closed Sunday
17, rue de l’Ecole Polytechnique
Tel: 01 43 26 10 40
Métro: Cardinal-Lemoine, Maubert Mutualité
5th arrondisement

Le Petit Prince – Carla Scott
Located across the street from Notre Dame in the Latin Quarter, Le Petit Prince is never empty but always filled with locals from the Sorbonne as well as international tourists. The food is fantastic and cheap,especially for lunch! 14  Euros for a two course meal with a carafe of wine! Great place to people watch and they have large pitchers of Sangria and free olives, nuts and bread at happy hour.
12 12 rue Lanneau
Metro: Maubert-Mutualité
5th Arrondissement

Café de Flore – Anne-Sophie Redisch
Originally from the late 1880s, Café de Flore is a Paris landmark and a favourite hangout for artists for most of the 20^th century. Located on Boulevard Saint-Germain, it’s perhaps most famous for being the watering hole of the existentialists in the mid-20^th century. During the German occupation, this was the second home to renown philosophers, Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir. As Sartre put it: …nous étions au Flore chez nous. They breakfasted, worked, lunched, talked, dined and entertained here from morning till night.

As in most Paris bistrots, it’s perfectly fine to sit by yourself. I especially like the covered outdoor section on a rainy day, having coffee (or lovely hot grog in winter) and watching Parisians hurrying past.

While they, at times, get a bit of flak for their service, over the years I’ve experienced nothing but nice, friendly waiters; letting me sit for hours and hours with a single glass of citron pressé, reading a book. When not busy, they’ve even offered great conversation. All those decades of philosophical debate must have permeated the woodwork, it’s one of my favourite hang-outs for inspiration.

Café de Flore is an excellent place to stop for champagne after shopping in fashionable Saint-Germain-des-Prés. On a more abstemious note, my 8-year-old adores their Croque monsieur.
26 Rue Saint-Benoît
75006 Paris, France
Tel: 01 45 44 33 40
6th Arrondissement

Le Colimacon Vine bar and Restaurant - Brigitte Aflalo Calderon
The winding staircase is one of the charms of this little Paris bistrot where you’ll discover good wines and regional dishes. Every week, 10 new dishes appear on the Le Colimacon menu, all inspired by the chef’s imagination and classics from regional French gastronomy. Foie-gras hamburger, sliced Breast of Duck with carmelized apples, Pastilla surprise, etc.  Very warm atmosphere. Owners strive to make you feel at home
44 rue Vieille du Temple
4th arrondissement

The Cluny’s renovation in 2002 included the dramatic lighting of the building’s façade, showcasing its Flamboyant Gothic architecture. The building was constructed in the late 1400s for Benedictine monks visiting from Cluny. Owned for a time by a collector, it and the collection are now owned by the state.

Probably the best-known item in the Cluny’s outstanding exhibits is “The Lady and The Unicorn,” a group of six 12-feet by 9-feet silk and wool tapestries. Woven in Flanders in the late 15th century, the tapestries show dreamlike scenes, each with a richly gowned woman and a unicorn. Five illustrate the senses, and the last is titled “To My Only Desire.” The intricately woven works show trees, vines, flowers, birds, and animals, including a lion, a monkey, and rabbits. They all carried symbolic moral significance in medieval times.  
The restored tapestries hang in the rotunda, dimly lighted to protect the colors. If you look closely at the lower edge of the panels, where ragged edges were repaired, you’ll see a difference in color. The newer dyes are not as bright as the earlier, vegetable-dyed sections.  Additional noted tapestries hang in the chapel, the former abbots’ oratory, and in the room next to it. These great artworks were done with skill and amazing attention to detail.

The Cluny holds a collection of everyday items used in medieval homes. There are boiled-leather chests used to store jewelry, books, and documents; painted ceramic bowls; quaint shoes and wooden combs. A box of ebony and walnut has a game on each side and sliding trays with six different games, including chess and backgammon. Weights and coins speak of trade, and travel chests of pilgrimages of the day, perhaps to Chartres, St-Jacques of Compostelle, Rome, or Jerusalem.

The “Seignorial Life Room” holds a tapestry that shows lords and ladies at their leisure, reading, singing, reciting poetry, hunting, and being generally chivalrous.  Another room displays weapons and armor.

An unusual item, rarely seen, is a wooden napkin holder of a kind that was commonly used by the upper classes. This one is the bust of a young woman in a low-cut dress and a tall hat with a veil falling beside her face. She holds a roller on which linen would have been placed.

Connected with the museum and on the grounds are the Thermes, or ancient baths, ruins that are probably one-third of the original bath complex. In the fragments of architecture and mosaics that remain, it’s easy to imagine the Romans and Gauls luxuriating in hot, tepid and cold baths. The most complete of the ruins is the “frigidarium.”

After a tour of the museum, it’s a pleasure to stroll in the garden, which was inspired by medieval gardens. There are kitchen, medicinal, and flower gardens, each with plants used some 600 years ago.  Flagstones hold the footprints (and paw- and hoof-prints) of animals in the tapestries, including fox, rabbit, and, of course, unicorn.
The National Museum of the Middle Ages, at 6, place Paul Painlevé, is open daily except Tuesday, 9:15 a.m. to 5:45 p.m. It is closed January 1, May 1, and December 25. Admission is free the first Sunday of the month.

I wanted to dig deeper. But I realized that even as we strolled unhurriedly from point to point, I was indeed imbibing the “real Paris”, lingering at the ubiquitous book stalls delicately and temptingly set up on the sidewalks along the Seine. Almost all of the literature displayed here was in French, and the books were pleasantly worn from many a reader.

We walked to the Student Quartier, where Elise took us to her favorite (and budget friendly) spot for crepes. It was a Lebanese-owned creperie, crammed with people hurriedly eating their salty or sweet crepes on bar stools around tiny round-top tables. Trying to decide what kind of crepe I should have, in Paris, created by an actual Parisian, was tres difficile, indeed. I wanted to order in my basic French, but the crepe maker spoke English rather well, and I lost my courage, ordering a banana and nutella crepe in my hushed, I’m-not-really-a-tourist American accent. I stood and stared after he had taken my order, watching the crepe man vigorously shake a closed two-liter plastic bottle filled with crepe batter (the bottle probably had contained mineral water originally.)

Then I realized; this is what I had come here for. As he shook and shook, I knew that this (although I had not known exactly how it would happen) was the kind of moment that I had been waiting for. Each shake of the bottle was like the beat of the heart of Paris. After all, Paris is not Paris without its cuisine.

The crepe man, in his ease of expertise, poured out a perfect portion of batter onto a large round cast iron pan and my crepe was ready just a few minutes later. As we ate, Elise asked us if we knew the secret to a perfect crepe? Beer! she exclaimed. It was what made the crepes fluff up so delicately.

I smiled down at my warm crepe because I now knew what made it so good. And I smiled at Paris because I knew I had come just a little closer to understanding her.

Little did we know that not only were we going to receive comfortable lodging, but also a juicy slice of typical Parisian life, and a tour of the city through a local’s eyes. And the most incredible part–this was all absolutely free. You read this right… free lodging in Paris

Elise lived in a mezzanine flat. As she opened the door and graciously showed us in, I was hit by the strong scent of goat cheese and the warmth of something freshly baked. Elise had just prepared a goat cheese, mushroom and leek pie in honor of our arrival. It was a perfect welcome, especially in such damp weather. As we dug into the rich pastry, adjusting to each others’ accents, sharing little details about our trip and hearing about her work day, I felt we were experiencing the true meaning of Hospitality Club.

From the windows of her flat in the Paris suburb of Montreuil, we watched the laser light show of the Eiffel Tower glowing through the fog of distance like a lighthouse in the city. I admitted that I was entranced by it, and was quickly informed that this laser light feature was not all that popular with Parisians.

The next day, Elise made sure to take us through the usual touristy spots, like Notre Dame, which was ridiculously overcrowded and because of that became quickly unappealing. The line to enter Notre Dame was very long. We walked past the Louvre and the National Opera House and the Sorbonne.  We ended up in Montmartre at Sacre Coeur; a beautiful spot that offered views over all of Paris. So, not only did we get free lodging in Paris, we got a personal tour of the city, thanks  to our wonderful hostess, Elise.

(Half a year later, we would be host, in Prague, to a couple of French Hospitality Club members from near Montpelier, France. They brought us, none other than, goat cheese as a present - along with an excellent white wine from their region.)

Giverny and the nearby town of Vernon are only 50 miles outside of Paris. They are a perfect location for a Paris day-trip.  Each year, more than 500,000 international visitors flock to Monet’s garden during the seven months (April to October) that it is open.  Monet’s property has been open to the public since 1980, after a massive restoration of both the home (exterior and original furniture) and the grounds, made possible by generous donors (mostly Americans).

Two of my favorite locations on the grounds are the Water Garden and the Japanese Bridge, subjects of some of Monet’s most famous paintings.  Both of these elements were designed after the Japanese gardens in the prints Monet collected. Monet had the pond for the Water Garden dug in 1893, ten years after his arrival at Giverny. The Japanese bridge, made of beech wood, was originally built by a local craftsman and later reconstructed by a firm in Vernon (shortly before the grounds were opened to the public).

Useful information for your visit:

The gardens are open April-October, Sunday 9:30- 6:00pm (last entry at 5:30pm); closed Mondays and November- March. Consult the Fondation Monet website for more information.

Rates: Adults 6,00€; 12 years and older 3,50€; children under 7 free; students 4,50€

Getting there:

Its easy to take a Paris day trip to Giverny.

By car: From Paris’s Périphérique (the highway that rings the city), follow the A-13 toward Rouen, get off at Vernon, follow Centre Ville signs, then follow the signs to Giverny.
By train: Take the Rouen-bound train from Paris’ Gare St. Lazare station to Vernon (6/day, more on Sat, about 25€ round-trip, 45 minutes one-way, 4 miles from Giverny).

From the Vernon train station to Monet’s garden (4 miles one-way), you can go by bus, taxi, bike, or on foot. The Vernon–Giverny bus meets every train for the 15-minute run to Giverny and takes you back in time to meet every return train to Paris.
If you miss the bus, you can always take a taxi (12€ for up to 3 people, 13€ for 4 one-way). It’s easy to find a taxi in front of the train station.

You can also rent bikes at L’Arrivée de Giverny, across from the train station (12€). Follow a paved bike path that runs from Vernon along an abandoned railroad (it takes roughly 30 min to get to Giverny). Of course, you can also walk to Giverny following the same path.

Don’t miss this exciting Paris day trip to Monet’s Garden in Giverny.

The Opéra Garnier, or Palais Garnier, in the 9th arrondisement, is anything but mundane. It’s huge, grandiose, and over-the-top opulent, and a Paris sight not to be missed. It took 14 years to build and was the world’s largest theater when it opened in 1875. Operas were performed here until the new (and controversial) Opéra Bastille was built in 1989. Now the Garnier features mostly ballet and modern dance.

Attending a performance is the ideal way to see the Opéra Garnier’s neo-Baroque magnificence — the sumptuous velvet draperies, the gilded statuary, the tangle of corridors, stairwells, alcoves and landings. The ceiling, surrounding a 6-ton chandelier, was painted in 1964 by Marc Chagall. This too was controversial, as Chagall’s work is a contrast to the rest of the grand décor. It’s intricate and festive, though, with a charm of its own.

If you can’t attend a performance, try to tour the building anyway. It’s open daily except January 1 and May 1. For a fee, visitors can walk up the grand staircase and through the Grand Foyer and see the 2,200-seat auditorium. There, in 1896, a counter-weight for the immense chandelier fell and killed a worker, which partially inspired Gaston Leroux to write his Gothic Phantom novel. Guided tours are available. (Nobody gets to see the subterranean water, though.) There’s also a museum showing costumes from various productions and models of sets.

For lunch before or after a tour or dinner after a performance, several good restaurants are nearby.  A few of the best (also, sorry, among the most expensive):
Senderens, on Place de la Madeleine, is famed for its fine cuisine. Alain Senderens “rejected” his three stars from the Michelin guide because he felt the rating caused too much pressure and he wanted to offer a simpler, less formal dining experience. But the food and service are still of very high quality. “Le Passage,” the upstairs café-bar, is less pricey than the dining room, though with fewer menu choices.

Drouant has been a favorite dining spot since it opened in 1880.  Drouant’s Alsatian chef emphasizes vegetables prepared in imaginative ways and creative, generous appetizers. The prestigious Goncourt Prize in literature is announced here every year.   

Le Fontaine Gaillon serves French cuisine, notably well-prepared seafood, in a chic, stylish, arty atmosphere. The actor Gérard Depardieu is one of the owners. 

Café de la Paix, designed by Garnier himself, is an institution, still offering its famous onion soup in a brasserie with an elegant ambience. If you dine on either terrace you are given a lower cost, simpler menu. The outside terrace has a view of Opéra Garnier, and the winter terrace overlooks Boulevard des Capucines.

If you’re yearning for American or Mexican food and lesser prices, the Hard Rock Café will oblige. This lively place, seating 250, has cheeseburgers, fajitas, brownies and ice cream. And there’s always the ubiquitous Starbucks for coffee and pastries. I have never been in a Starbucks in Paris, nor do I intend to, but there are many available in case you are so inclined.

Today, we are boarding the Paris Nivernais, an all year-round train. The line travels south from Paris through the magnificent regions of Centre and Burgundy – down to Nevers. If you don’t stop at any of the the following cities along the way, you’ll arrive in Nevers in just two hours from the Paris Bercy station.

Montargis, the first city on the itinerary, is a charming destination in the Gatinais region. Located on the banks of the Loing River by the Foret de Montargis, this lovely town of 16,000 people offers a perfect setting for long walks or bicycle rides. Moreover, with its 131 bridges the “Venice of the Gâtinais,” as locals proudly call it, lends itself to romantic promenades. If you are fond of markets, you will be greeted by the Marche de la Place Girodet every Wednesday and Saturday morning. And fans of the Tour Cycliste de France (Tour de France) may want to know that the 2010 tour will stop in Montargis on July 8. Last but not least, explore the Trail of the Chinese of Montargis. Yes, indeed! In the early part of the 20th century, many Chinese immigrants found their way to Montargis, including one of the future founders and leaders of the Chinese Communist Party, Deng Xiaoping. He spent a few years in Montargis where he worked at a rubber factory. Today, the trail evokes his daily life.

Before reaching Nevers, you’ll pass; Gien with its castle now housing a Hunting Museum, Briare with its 622 meter-long aqueduct that spans the Loire river, and La Charite-sur-Loire with the Clunac priory and Notre Dame Church, both registered on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Nevers, the Paris Nivernais’s final destination, lies at the foot of the Loire, the last remaining “natural” major river in Europe. Its long meanders provide for a range of outdoor activities — walking, hiking, traditional boating, canoeing or birdwatching. Nevers is also known for its Or Bleu (Blue Gold,) the ancestral pottery that has made the town world-famous for many centuries. Since the 17th century the master potters have been perpetuating the trade, creating pieces inspired by ancient designs or contemporary styles. The “Pottery Walk” which begins at the tourist office is recommended.

Nevers is also about its culinary traditions — meat from the Charolais, fish from the Loire, as well as cheese, honey, and special candies made only in Nevers. The Nougatine de Nevers, for example, has a crunchy almond and sugar centre and is wrapped in an orange-coloured fondant. And, created in 1902 to commemorate the visit of the King of Ethiopia, Le Négus is a soft caramel covered in sugar.

Should you decide to stay overnight in Montargis or Nevers, here are some tips:

Where to eat in Montargis

Oh Terroir
4 avenue Jean Jaures

Du pain sur la planche
2 rue Paul Doumer

Where to sleep in Montargis

Hotel du Centre
An old maison bourgeoise
2 rue Gudin.

Ibis Montargis
2, Place Victor Hugo

Where to eat in Nevers*

Au Petit Caveau
Traditional cuisine.
15 rue de Vertpre

La Botte de Nevers
Gourmet Cuisine
Rue du Petit Château

*A certain number of the département’s restaurants have the “Les Toques Nivernaises” sign, which is a guarantee of a warm welcome, good service and a varied cuisine which is always of high quality.

Where to sleep in Nevers

Hotel de Diane, Best Western
Located near the train station in ‘old’ Never, it is just 300 meters away from la Loire
38 rue du Midi

Hotel Clos Sainte Marie
In the heart of town, a real haven
25 rue du Petit Mouesse

Nevers Tourist Office

Palais ducal
Rue Sabatier, Nevers

How to get your tickets

You can get your tickets at any SNCF train station or SNCF boutique, or on the internet. Some travel agencies in France sell train tickets, as well. Trains run in both directions several times a day. Please note that all trains don’t run all-year around. For some destinations, a stamped train ticket allows you to rent a bike for the day with a discount.

For more information on touristic trains, go to Touristic Trains or to Intercities